Khao Sok National Park

Khao Sok is on the way to Phuket, having heard wonderful things about it we have decided to stay here overnight. It is one of Thailand's best maintained national parks and is a tropical evergreen forest (it cannot be classed as rain forest as it has a dry season of a few months) with lots of impressive limestone cliffs. One of the main reasons for going to so we could be woken in our treetop hut by the sound of gibbons calling in the morning.

we got to see a lot of the park just from the bus arriving and leaving the next day. As we were staying only one night we did not have enough time to do a trip deep into the park. There are plenty of trails that can be done without a guide, most of these are closed now for the rainy season but two are still accessible and that's enough for the time we have.

so the first attack came whilst Greg was lugging our backpacks to our treetop hut, I had gone on ahead to open the door. we had already inspected the hut and it was very basic but had a mosquito net and a balcony overlooking the river. He had dismissed my claims of the attack as he really just wanted to get the bags sorted.

Maybe the tree top jungle hut is not a good idea as now Agh!!! the room has a really big big black spider, and its on the bed- its was as big as my hand. but I was really brave and I did not freak I asked that when we returned the bed be checked before I got into it. Spiders are really high on the list of things that scare me and this was a big one. So OK we have been here five minutes but all will be fine I am sure, we change into waterproof clothes and go for food and a drink and a look about, its quite late in the evening and its raining. We never did see that spider again- phew!!

So trekking the next day suitably attired in walking boots, long all weather trousers, a waterproof coat a hat and the hood of my coat pulled up over it- nothing is getting at me!! Its raining again but its not cold.

I don't know how long we had been walking before I felt the need to roll down my sock slightly- and yes there he was a nasty little leech looking to attach himself, and by no means was he the last! They were everywhere you could see them reaching for you from the path as you walked by them and before long we had both flicked many of them off ourselves. Again I must say i was doing quite well at this point i was a little squeamish about them and really did not like he idea of them but i was coping.

We met some locals at the end of the first trek and sat with them for a while. A rather large leech appeared on the floor between me and Greg we are not sure which of us it dropped off (shudder) but the locals had a good time chopping it u with this huge knife that appeared from nowhere!!

Although it is raining neither of us are dry the waterproofs are not suited to the humidity of the park and we are both drenched with sweat, but the is not sweat rolling down my arm although I tell myself it is at first I cant help but have a look and as I take my coat off the sleeve of my top is soaking through with blood and the little bugger is still in my sleeve. This time a bit of panic starts to set in- how the hell did it get there??? and as I now have it caught up in my sleeve I find I am frozen in place- if I move it might roll away and get lodged somewhere else about my person. Eventually Greg does get me to get it out and this one was burnt in the lid of a pop bottle.

OK so panic over we continue on our way and start the second walk, oh my god there is something slimy on the back of my leg and this time it is an all out screeching and leg shaking freak out!! Its funny now but that slimy feeling was just the last straw. The leech was actually long gone what I had felt was a huge globule of blood welling up where it had been and soaking into my trousers.

Whilst we were inspecting my leg a couple came skipping (not really that's for effect!) round the corner in shorts and trainers and an umbrella, they didn't stop to wonder what we were doing and carried on their way. As we set out again I do remember wondering if they had it right being dressed like that at least you would be able to see them better if they were on you.

As we rounded the corner the girl was having an almighty screaming fit and stamping around wildly. The leech in question was not even on her it was on her shoe! Oh how much better do I feel about my own little (much littler!) fit now! We did stand and watch for a while :)

we never did see that couple again they didn't catch us up and on the return there was no sign of them we think they fled the park!!

I was aware of another one by my knee but I know I cannot roll my trousers that high, I will soldier on!!

Once back at the hut we both stood on the balcony and stripped there were a couple of fat leeches that fell to the ground and we checked for any more (one of them had got me on the bum!!). Those that were trying to wiggle their now fat little bodies to safety were squished with the boots, bright red blood would spurt out but the little sods wouldn't die they would just be gone when we next looked.

Greg did admit he hadn't believed me the first time I said I had been attacked- when we were getting the bags to the room! Ha!!

The wounds bled on and off for about 12 hrs, when the scabs did eventually form they were so fragile that the slightest knock would send the blood pouring out again. It was about 3 weeks before the little bumps went.

It was a relief go get the bus! Of the gibbons there had been no sound I think we may have been mislead and they didn' t hang in our part of the forest anymore!

Ko Tao, Ko Phangan & Ko Samui

Ko Tao

Yay our first of the paradise islands! Ko Tao is a really big on diving and the majority of the people here are looking to do just that though there are still people like us who don't dive.

Our first guest house here is on the beach!! its a bit old and decrepit with holes in the floor but you know what its a little bamboo hut on stilts with a grass roof, a little en suite toilet and shower and a balcony. There is nothing between us and the sea except sand, at night the sea comes right in and you go to sleep to the sound of the waves- its just perfect!!

The guest house we are staying at also has its own bar/restaurant which did the most amazing Thai food. The best massaman curry i had in my entire time in Thailand. And although i didn't know it that was my last taste of proper Thai food, in the islands is very expensive and is no where near as tasty as in the north.

We spent that afternoon walking along the beach, (white sands, sunshine, palm trees just what you expect from the Thai islands) and playing in the sea.

The next day we set about exploring. walking to the top of the island there is a look out point where you can see Koh Nang Yuan its a cluster of three tiny islands connected with sand bars. There are day trips out to the islands but the set up there is a bit funny, the islands are let by the government to a chap who has built a resort on one of them and charges others to visit. we admired it from a distance.

we then headed right the way back down and across to the south to a little cove where the water was really clear and we could see lots of fishes swimming around our legs. very nice!

We were to spend two nights on each island, so now it was on to Ko Phangan.

Ko Phangan

So this is the home of the famous full moon party. We arrived two days after the party having spent the full moon on Ko Tao. We did however stay in the Hat Rin area (cliff top bungalow this time!) which has two beaches and the party is on one of them. Thinking that the party beach would be a bit of a mess we headed out to the other one. Its only a ten minute walk between the two and was a big disappointment, this was not a particularly nice beach the tide line was covered in rubbish. God only knows what the other beach looks like!

Ha well the other beach was pristine! the sand was finer, the sea clearer and the whole place was really clean despite having had thousands of revellers there two nights earlier! They really make a big thing about cleaning this beach and anyone who arrives at Hat Rin pier on the day of the party has to pay an extra 100B towards the clean up.

The beach was busy that night there are bars with the fire dancers, its amazing to watch them throwing these flaming batons up into the air and catching them again. To keep people drinking at their bar they lay on games such as jumping through a ring of fire and the giant flaming skipping rope. There a stalls lined up all along the beach front selling buckets, which will be a small bottle of a spirit of your choice, a can of pop and a can of red bull all mixed together in a small bucket.

Our second night there it was really quiet and the town seem deserted, we later found out that there was a big party at another beach further round the island. There is nothing much of traditional Thailand here its all set up to cater to the hoards of younger tourists looking to party. The food is mostly western and if somewhere does do Thai its not so good. We found somewhere that did a really good full English- run by an Englishman of course!!

The one element of Thai culture that does thrive here is the massage parlours! So as there was nothing going on in town we treated ourselves to full body oil massages. it was really relaxing even though somewhere a baby started crying in the middle of it (bit random)

We did attempt to walk about the island a bit but got a bit lost and ended up back in town, so we had a snooze on the beach instead. So two nights here and it was off to Ko Samui.

Ko Samui

The biggest of these three islands. And it was another beach hut for us, in Bo Phut in the north. It used to be a small fishing village and the main street (if you could call it that) is made up of shops converted from the old fisherman dwellings.

Once we were all settled in we headed down to the south to go to see the Grandfather (Hinta) and Grandmother (Hinyai) rocks. These are naturally formed rocks that are shaped like male and female rude bits (keeping it clean you never know who is reading!!)

On the way back to Bo Phut from there we went to Lamai, this is not as popular with the tourists as Chaweng its considered to be Samui's 2nd beach but there we found a fantastic rock bar with nobody in it and we were allowed to pick our own music DVD's Yay great place, fantastic place!!

The following day we took a boat out to Ang Thong National Park, a cluster of islands just off Samui. On our first stop we went sea kayaking now i must admit that i had been really looking forward to this but in reality i hated it. I just do not have the upper body strength to keep the kayak going in the tidal waters around the islands. My life jacket was way too big, when sat down it hooked over my ears and i was convinced on numerous occasions that we were going to be swept out to sea!! agh i was really useless!! once we got back to the beach we had a little swim and checked out the monkeys, they had white rings around their eyes and looked permanently startled. We wondered up to a bit of a view point and had a look- all really nice.

The next stop was a green tidal lagoon. really really beautiful. its sits in a ring of cliffs and is fed by underwater tunnels that are too small for boats or divers to navigate. we saw some fantastic fish in there, an enormous blue one and a sea snake and clams- all sorts of stuff. you cannot swim in the water here.

Back at the beach again we made an attempt at snorkeling but with a boat load of people trying the same most of the sand had been disturbed and we didn't do very well getting out to clear waters, as it was we had spent so long spotting critters in the lagoon it was time to get back on the boat.

Back in Bo Phut we ate at a french restaurant, there is quite a heavy french influence here for some reason and the food was fantastic!!

so with our two nights on Samui it was time to head back to the mainland.

Bangkok Again!

Ha well as previously mentioned I spent a couple of days in Bangkok doing nothing- nothing at all and it was brill. Had a little look up Kao San Road the main backpacking area one afternoon its full of stalls selling gifts and clothing. and watched a few movies at the guest house.

Andrea arrived back after her trip to the south and we made another attempt to get to the top of the golden mount to see the sun set over Bangkok- the book tells us this is lovely! As we actually arrived there whilst it was still light this time we were able to see that it actually shuts at 5.30pm and so not only could we not climb to the top again it shuts way before the sun goes down!! I never did make a third attempt to get to the top of here I think it is just one of those places I am not meant to see!

We had another wonder up Kao San Road this time to see what its like at night- busy, noisy, bright lights, stalls not just selling the gifts and clothes but now a whole range of cocktails are available!

Andrea went home later that night, its strange to think that suddenly I am alone in this country now- well until tomorrow afternoon anyway!!

Yes so Greg arrived, and it was fab to see him walking towards our meeting place with his backpack. He had had a really bad flight over and wasn't feeling too good but once we had dumped our bags at the hotel he rallied and we set off to see Wat Arun (temple of the Dawn) across the river from the Grand Palace.

This is a really old temple and is massive compared to some- it is covered from top to toe in fragments of porcelain which have all been put together to make patterns and flowers all over the outside walls. From the top you get a really good view of Bangkok.

That evening we found a bar with a band playing various rock covers- they were really good and the lead guitar looked just like every picture I have ever seen of Genghis Khan- Rock on!

Our first full day was taken up with the Grand Place and the Wat Phra Kaeo (temple of the Emerald Buddha) the temple area is lovely with huge statues and fantastical paintings and elaborate buildings.

I was quite surprised to find that the much loved emerald (jade) Buddha is really small. This whole temple was built to house it, it has its own set of clothes for each season and its really tiny! It is really old though- dates back to 1400 and something!

The place itself is nowhere near as grand as the temple and not all of it is accessible, in fact even some of the grounds were closed off due to the lying in state ceremony of the kings sister. She died in January and is still waiting cremation, apparently the more respect you gained in life the longer they leave it.

we did get to go and have a look at the throne room and round some of the armory, we saw the changing of the guard outside the apartments reserved for foreign dignitaries- its where the queen stayed!! we also tried this drink that is made out of flowers- christanthamums I think it was and it was totally vile- have tried absolutely nothing like it and hope to never do so again!!

The Temple and the Palace are worth going for a look around. esp as the ticket is then valid to get you in at Dusit Place too. so this is where we went the next day.

Dusit Palace is actually lots of little palaces set in a park with the biggest building being the huge throne room built strangely enough in the Italian Renaissance style- looks a little out of place! currently there is an exhibition of some of the crown jewels in there, beautiful and extravagant works of art, howdahs, thrones and all sorts of royal regalia all made out of solid gold and decorated with precious gems. Not one item we was in there was more than 10 years old, I cannot imagine what the halls of the Grand Palace must be like if this collection is just the items made in the last decade!


The other main attraction at Dusit Palace is the Vimanmek, the worlds largest teak wood building, and it is made entirely of teak right down to the teak pegs holding it all together! You are not allowed to just wonder through this building you join a group with a guide that speaks your language for a tour and an explanation of whats in each room, its now a museum to King Ramma V who built it at the turn of the century.

we got caught in a horrendous thunder storm leaving here- another reminder that the wet season is starting up (soon be time for the little Buddha to change his clothes!)

Tonight we are getting the coach south to a ferry and on to our first island - Ko Tao!

Sukhothai & Phitsanulok

had a really good think about where to go to from Chiang Mai, didn't really want to stay in the north fancied heading back down south making my way back to Bangkok where I am due to meet Andrea for her last couple of days, and then Greg arrives- YAY!!!




So I decided on Sukhohai, it was a 5 hour bus journey from Chiang Mai and is made up of the old city and the new. It is yet another old capital!




when the bus driver asked if I was going to the old city I said I would be not realising he was going to do a special drop for me. So there I am at the side of the road with my bags, its getting dark, frantically trying to work out where on earth I was. all the information I had looked up was on the basis that I was getting into town quite late and wanted some where cheap cheerful and within easy reach of the bus station!



It sounds worse than it is there is only one strip of hotels and restaurants in the old city as the rest of it is a world heritage site so I just asked at a couple until one quoted me something I was willing to pay.



the old city is very small and very easy to get around on a bicycle (bacon arms again!!). Although it is not as impressive or as wide spread as Ayutthaya it does feel that there is more of it intact, this is probably due to the fact a lot of the Buddhas are still in place and some of them are immense. There is still restoration work being done in many places.



the site is split into two parts the main central area and the outskirts. There is quite a high police presence here at the moment as 5 months ago a Japanese tourist was robbed and killed. it is nice to see that even after nearly half a year they still take the threat seriously.

One day was enough to see the ancient city, and as i passed though the new city i could see that people were right there is nothing there so i am glad i didn't stop there after all.

so next i thought i would go to Phitsanulok, apparently there is a Buddha there that is second only to the emerald Buddha in Bangkok.

it was only a couple of hours away by bus and i checked into the youth hostel there which was just out of town. The youth hostel was a strange place set back off the road it was surrounded by vines and creepers that had totally gone wild- it was like being back in the jungle but more so if that makes sense. i quickly realised that i was the only person staying there. i walked into to town but as i am now in the hottest part of Thailand (central plains) i was starting to flag before i got to the temple.

The ATM refused my cards which gave me a mini heart attack and i then put all thoughts of sightseeing aside and got my self to the nearest Internet cafe (fortunately air conditioned!!) My Internet banking had been blocked too which was not good either but at least this meant that it was the bank taking security measures and not someone clearing out my account that had stopped me withdrawing cash. A quick phone call and all was sorted.

By this point i had had enough and went back to the hostel, and there i stayed. Being the only one staying there and not really having the best security for my room (in my mind anyway) i spent most of the night sitting watching the door and got out of town first thing in the morning- straight back to Bangkok - aah it feels good- i have done noting for two days- what a relief.

so really Phitsanulok was a total write off, there are some lovely national parks a couple of hours away but i had had a bad day and just wanted to move on.

so yes two days of doing nothing. I am waiting for Greg to arrive (Tomorrow) Yippee!!!

Chiang Mai

After I left you guys in Lop Buri there was an almighty thunder storm, the rain came lashing down and the the lightning was crazy and the streets flooded. It lasted a good couple of hours which apparently is unusual as its a bit early in the season of that.

Anyway we had to wade our way back to the train station to get the sleeper train to Chiang Mai, Thailands second city.

I think I must have arrived to the sound of a huge dinner gong- all the mosquitoes in the area made a bee line (mozy line!) for me and I got eaten alive.

We were staying by the Tha Phae Gate area so spent the afternoon of the day we arrived having a look around the old city. As usual the main attractions are Temples. these are a bit different to the ones have seen so far in that they have lots of dragons and strange beings as decorations and a lot are simply carved wood and not the gaudy sparklers of Bangkok.

The main attraction in Chiang Mai is the trekking and the hill tribes, so obviously this is something we booked to do- a 3 day (2 night) trek in the mountainous area that surrounds Chiang Mai, meeting and staying with various tribes along the way.

we were told time and again that its not like real trekking its more like walking... Ha!

So anyways the morning of the trek I wake up with a stinking cold- no doubt thanks to the down pour at Lop Buri, but not to worry its only like walking anyway- right?

We did a couple of touristy things first, our guides (DK and Sac from the Karen Tribe) first took us to a butterfly farm and an orchid farm which were both very nice. we were then deposited at the end of a dirt track in the middle of nowhere.

The five hour trek in the pouring rain was absolutely nothing like walking at all, except maybe in small parts. We had a quick break with the Karen Tribe and a cup of tea. They live in bamboo huts on stilts, we only met one young girl who made us a drink she was 14 and had been married a year. Her husband in his 20's went out to work (Farming?) and she looked after the home.

The views across the valleys were amazing though and dotted throughout the jungle were odd little patches of cleared earth that the local tribe would be using as farm land until they had exhausted it. it would be then left to return to jungle and another patch cleared.

As we trekked DK was very proud to point out various plants and their medicinal purpose to the tribe, he also pointed out various fruit baring trees such as lychee and found a cashew nut tree. apparently with the cashew nut each nut grows covered in a skin that is toxic to human skin so each one has to be picked and peeled carefully - might explain why they are so expensive!!

He also pointed out the 'Cobra House' and told us what to look for, and should we see anything that looked like the cobra house stay away just in case- basically a mound of earth with many entrances and exits. thankfully this cobra was sleeping!!

That night we stayed with the Padaung Tribe. They are more commonly known in Thailand as the 'Long Necks' as the women wear brass neck coils that stretch the neck (and crush the collar bone and squash the lungs) This is a Burmese tribe who have moved into Thailand to avoid persecution. Visiting with this tribe was like going to a freak show it was incredibly uncomfortable they didn't want to interact with us in anyway, they were there so we could look, point take a few pics and hopefully buy a few knick knaks, it was not nice. To round it off the beds they provided us with in a bamboo hut were infested!! Great night!!

So yes the next day i woke feeling a fell of a lot worse than i have done in a long time, the humidity and the rain have really helped my cold along- its now a cough too!!! i so wanted to come home on that day!!

A couple of hours more trekking and we arrive at the Elephant Camp. They really are fantastic animals, riding one though is not easy. We sat on a small bench strapped to the beasts back which rocks from side to side as he lumbers along, this is fine its going down the steep bank into the river that was scary- with only the bench to hold onto and nowhere to but my feet (digging my feet into his back seemed rude!) I was totally convinced I was going to go diving head first into the muddy waters- and then get trampled!!! Coming out the river the other side was not as bad. Our crazy elephant then decided it had itchy legs, so it backed up to a tree lifted one leg high and proceeded to rub it against the tree quite vigorously- this is also not good on a little bench and me and Andrea had to cling on for dear life!! To round it off once it had finished and we thought we were safe it decided to do the other leg!!

Once the elephant ride was over there was another 3 hours trekking ahead to the next tribe. Wweeellll given that I didn't feel great and was most uncomfortable with the Padaung I decided it was time to cut it short and head back to Chiang Mai. It was a shame but I could feel the benefits of being out of that humidity within minutes of being back in the city. Apparently the next tribe were much nicer and did some traditional dances for their guests which would have been nice to see, and maybe I would have contemplated it if I could have been dropped in by helicopter!

So back in Chiang Mai I went to see Doi Suthep which is a temple on the top of a mountain. The story goes that some relics of Buddha cloned themselves before the eyes of the king and not knowing what to do with them he put them in a shrine on the back of a sacred white elephant (as you do) and set it free- where it eventually dropped down dead is where he built the temple- on top of Suthep Mountain. It has some amazing views of the city.

Another attraction has to be the giant pandas at the local zoo- they were worth seeing.

after another few days of doing odd bits and pieces like going to see the silversmiths in action and another market I decided that I was ready to call it a day here. Andrea had already left a couple of days earlier after she got back from the trek, she wanted to spend her last week by the beach and so got a flight down to Ko Samui I will meet her back in Bangkok in a few days.

Ayutthayah & Lop Buri

This place is great it used to be the old capital in the 14th century but the Burmese kept burning it down!

there are many many ruined temples dotted about the place some of them really spectacular. so thats mainly what we did here, on the first day anyway.

On the second day Andrea was too hung over so I hired a bike and peddled my way to firstly the elephant sanctuary and fed the baby elephants- how cute are they!!!

and then on to more temples. one is actually still standing because the Burmese used it as a base from which to bomb the palace but one of the cannon misfired (of course Buddha intervention) and he was badly injured and they had to withdraw. the king died before getting back home so each time the Burmese invaded after that they left that temple alone. It looks like may of the others but in one small part of it there are some old wall murals that you can just make out.


it was lovely to be on the bike got to see so much though my arms were like two strips of bacon by the time got back to the guest house and i was well and truly knackered!!

that evening we did a boat trip. Ayutthaya is basically an island it is surrounded by river on all sides. Guess what more temples- there was a crazy Chinese Buddhist temple that was a bit different!!!

I have yet to find out the significance of all the giant chickens.

This morning we got the train to Lop Buri. The crazy things that are sold at the train station- crisps made from peas!! they are green and everything (look like chipsticks), and a book entitled 'Hot Rock' which has short biographies on some of Thailands rock legends, artist such as Potato, Blackhead and my personal favourite- Sleepingsheep! I may have to google these when i get back!!!

I know there are lots of Buddhas in Thailand and i have seen lots of Buddha in Thailand but when you are pootling along on the train and suddenly a giant Buddha appears over the tree line it really is quite strange!

Anyway Lop Buri is a small place famous for monkeys, in an old part of town they are everywhere dangling from trees, shop fronts, electricity cables everywhere. There is a temple just a couple of minutes walk from the train station where most of them seem to congregate. Whilst there i did a little ritual that involved picking a coloured stick from a pot, checking the number on it and then collecting my corresponding fortune from wall opposite. they say that its bad you can then ask Buddha to change it. Mine was good!

The museum here which is the only other attraction is shut today so we have lots of hours to kill before getting the sleeper tonight and there is nothing else to do here!!!

so this is real time!!!! :)

Kanchanaburi, Thailand

Home of the Bridge Over The River Kwai

Hey well its really nice here really hot (again) on the afternoon of our arrival we went up to the war cemetery and the the death valley museum- very sobering.

But its not all war there is the Erawan National Park, which is supposed to have the best water falls in the whole of Thailand and they really are very pretty.

There are seven tiers and you can swim in some an the fish nibble on your toes- that is the strangest sensation an as the fish got bigger I couldn't take it any more it was too tickly and odd!! i finally decided that the only way to describe it is like this- its like a million small cat tongues licking your feet all at the same time- can you feel it???

By the way i have just realised that is not my foot its Andrea's- you can tell by the plasters!!!!!! :)

there are also the monkeys that rob your banana chips!!

Whilst there we saw lots of big trees with coloured fabric wrapped round them an suits of clothing hanging from them. according to a local lass in our bar when a tree is big they believe it has a spirit in it and they will wrap fabric round it and request good fortune in something. if it comes true they buy the spirit clothing!

after there we went to see a cave that the Japanese army used as a medical base it now has a big Buddha and it smells of bats. this cave was right on the death valley railway and we could walk along this track for quite away (even though it is still in use) and the scenery was was amazing. It really bought home how massive an undertaking it must have been to put this all together there there was sheer cliff face one side an a drop of overgrown jungliness the other. We did take a short trip on the railway.

the Bridge Over The River Kwai was our next stop, although it had been bombed by the allies it has been repaired an you can see some of the bomb damage on the supports.

Kanchanaburi itself is a lovely place, its small but lively. we found a fantastic bar by the hotel called 'Friend Bar' an it really was the best place to go though not really very busy the staff were great fun an we went there every night, no where else could compete!!

There was also a cafe called 'Fine' which did the best curry yet!

probably the biggest attraction here though is the Tiger Temple. ah wow this is a sanctuary for wild animals. they are cared for by the monks, most of the tigers there now are descended from the original rescue ones.

you actually get to sit with an stroke these tigers all be it for a short time. then its on to play with babies- one even tried to climb up my leg- ahh its so fantastic. there are other animals at the sanctuary like water buffalo and boar (their babies were sweet!) but hey its all about the tigers for me!!!!

Apparently just up past the cemetery there is the dragon temple you walk into the dragons mouth through its body an come out on a hill- its not in any of the books/maps and none of the locals mentioned it (does it really exist or was the source on something??) didn't find out about it till the last morning so didn't get to look for it- but if any of you are in the area..

Favourite Food So Far- Pan Thai / Panang

Lady Boys - 2 possibly 3 we are still debating that one. We have prob seen loads more and not realised

Lizards are common place now!!